Yadda ake rungumar Gashin Gashi tare da Karin haske

Wadatacce

• Kulawa da Ciyar da launin toka
• Briogeo Mega Moisture Superfood Mask
• Kérastase Paris Blond Absolu Le Bain Cicaextreme
• Mask ɗin Gashin Gashi Mai Kyau
• Kevin Murphy Cool Angel Shine Jiyya
• Bita don

Abu daya ne ka ce kai a fan na tsufa da alheri, wani abu ne a zahiri don gano yadda za ku zama alamar tsufa mai kyau da kanku. Musamman lokacin da kuka fara yin launin toka ta hanyar ranar haihuwar ku ta talatin, kuma kun shafe shekaru goma masu kyau-da ƙoƙarin ɓoye wannan gaskiyar daga duniya.

Ina da mahaifina don godiya ga baƙar fata gashin da ya ba ni, da kuma yanayin ɗabi'ar sa don yin launin toka da wuri. Ina kallon hotunan iyali tun daga ƙuruciyata, zan iya ganin ya fara haskakawa a lokacin da ya kai shekaru 30. Har yanzu ina da gashin duhu a wannan shekarun - amma saboda na shafe lokaci mai yawa a cikin gidan wanka. madubi yana fitar da zaren azurfa marasa dacewa. Na kasance 32 lokacin da launin toka ya yi yawa don ci gaba da yin amfani da su ta hanyar tweezer kuma na fara ziyartar salon don maganin sarrafawa guda ɗaya. Alƙawura na sun zama masu yawa, kuma a ƙarshen shekaruna talatin, na gaya wa kaina cewa ina kan tsarin jadawalin mako-mako-takwas-amma hakan ne kawai lokacin da ba ni da hirar aiki ko bikin abokina ko wani abu da ya baratar da ni. gaggauta komawa cikin kujera.

Ɗaya daga cikin alƙawuran gaggawa na ya faru ne a ranar da mai salo na na yau da kullun ba ya aiki, don haka na ƙarasa kan kujerar wata mace mai suna Christine Camille Sanchez-Ressy. Kafin taje bayan salon gyaran jiki ta hada kayana na yau da kullun, ta binciki tushena ta ce ko zan taba tunanin kawo azurfar a fuskata.

"Kana da kusan kashi hamsin cikin dari na launin toka," in ji ta, ta sanar da ni, abin da ya firgita, "kuma ina tsammanin ina ganin sauti mai kyau a karkashin wurin." Na gaya mata zan yi tunani, kuma na guji salon zuwa shekara mai zuwa saboda tsoron shiga cikin matar da ta san gaskiya mai ban tsoro. Ban shirya fuskantar gaskiyar da kaina ba, na yaudari salon da nake ƙauna tare da ziyarar lokacin cin abincin rana zuwa wani (mummunan muni) madadin da ke kan titi daga tsohon ofishina.

Duk da haka, kalmomin Sanchez-Ressy sun makale da ni. Ta yi daidai. Babu tambaya game da shi: Ina buƙatar yin wani abu dabam. Godiya ga babban bambanci tsakanin duhun gashina da layin tushen sa, na fara kama da mayya. Da daddare a kan gado, nakan sami kaina ina zazzagewa ta Instagram, ina neman hotunan matan da suka yi ƙarfin hali fiye da ni, suna rawar launin toka mai haske ko gashin gashi mai launin toka. Ba da daɗewa ba, kusan duk abubuwan da na ba da shawara an yiwa alama #silverfox, #freethesilver, #fara da kyau, ko #grombre. Yawancin masu launin toka sune mata da ban taɓa jin labarin su ba, wanda ke ba da wata ma'ana idan aka yi la’akari da yadda tsarin zamantakewar mu yake da sauƙin daidaitawa. Manyan mutane kamar George Clooney, Bard Pitt, Hugh Grant kuma za su iya barin makullansu na launin toka su nuna kuma kawai su kasance masu banbanci, amma akwai layin da ba a faɗi ba cewa matan da ke da shekaru ba za su ƙetare ba. Ina tsammanin mai yiyuwa ne Rashida Jones, Angelina Jolie, Naomi Campbell, da sauran ’yan kungiyarsu duk sun mallaki kwayoyin halittar sihiri da ke sa gashinsu ya zama ‘yar makaranta-sabo bayan shekarun haihuwa. Amma mafi kusantar, suna jin muryoyin iri ɗaya waɗanda suka ce min koyaushe in rufe gashin kaina. A hankali kaɗan, duk da haka, wasu jarumai masu ƙarfin hali suna rungumar tushen asalinsu kuma suna canzawa zuwa furfura da niyya - yanayin da ya sami karbuwa, godiya ga cutar.

"COVID ya yi wahalar zuwa salon, kuma a sakamakon haka mun ga wasu mashahuran mutane kamar Gwyneth Paltrow da Jennifer Aniston suna girgiza gashin kan su a ƙarshen 2020, yana buɗe wa abokan cinikinmu damar jin daɗin rungumar launin toka," in ji Kate Reid , Daraktan zane da ilimi na kamfanin kula da gashi Kevin Murphy.

Wannan ya tunatar da ni wasu iconsan gumakan azurfa masu alfahari, gami da irin su Jane Fonda, Andie MacDowell, da Sharon Osborne, waɗanda dukkansu suna da abu ɗaya: Hairstylist Jack Martin, wanda Tustin, salon salon California shine Makka ga matan da ke shirye don yin canjin, kashe kuɗi da lokacin da za a la'ane (ƙima a cikin kujerarsa yana ɗaukar kwana ɗaya gaba ɗaya). Asusunsa na Instagram wata falala ce ta mata waɗanda ya kawo daga ƙanƙarar launin toka zuwa gaɗaɗɗen tauraro, mafi alherin Norse fiye da bala'in da ya lalace wanda na ji na zama. Kamar yadda Martin ke rabawa a cikin taken sakonnin sa na zamantakewa, dabarun sa na wannan launin ruwan gashi na ombre ya haɗa da cire tsohon fenti, da sake fentin duk gashin kan da bleach-wanda ya zana a cikin ratsin launi da toner, domin don ba da babban bambanci na tasirin azurfa-duk an tsara su don dacewa da tsarin tushen abokin ciniki. Ya rinjayi layin kwance inda aikin launi na ƙarshe da haɓakar yanayi ke zama da juna. Fasahar fasaha ce ta fasaha, wanda, a ka'ida, zai iya taimaka muku nisanta daga salon har tsawon lokacin da kuke so. (Mai alaƙa: Yadda ake Yanke Gashin kanku a gida lokacin da alƙawari baya cikin katunan)

Amma ban sake kafa ƙafa a cikin salon ba shine burin na. Ina son kuma na rasa Sara Yuni, akwatin jauhari na Brooklyn wanda na saba da shi kuma inda zan iya dogara ga shiga cikin marubutan gida da uwaye. (Ƙari: Suna ba da giya.) Ina so in yi masa hidima da kaina, sharuddan 'yanci. Don haka watanni goma sha ɗaya cikin bala'in, bayan gwaje -gwaje daban -daban da suka gaza wajen rungumar DNA na - da farko ban yi komai ba, wanda shine abin tsoro (da gaske ya kasance rabin launin toka, a kalla); sai na yi ƙoƙari na canza zuwa inuwa mai launin ruwan kasa mai haske wanda zai iya ɗaukar tushena da gafara, amma wanda taguwarsa kawai ya sa na zama kamar Garfield cat - Na kai ga Sanchez-Ressy, mai salo wanda ya yi ƙoƙari ya ba ni taimako sau ɗaya. a wani lokaci. Na ce mata ina bukatar taimakonta fiye da kowane lokaci. Na yi rashin lafiya na ba da shawarar waya maimakon bidiyo. Na gama sanya fuskata nesa da inci uku daga kwamfutar akan kowane kiran Zoom don fitar da duk abin da ke arewacin gira na.

Ban tabbata Sanchez-Ressy zai tuna da ni ba bayan duk wannan lokacin. Amma ba kawai ta san ainihin ni ba, amma kusan ta kasance tana tsammanin saƙo na. Ta roƙe ni in aiko da selfie don ta iya yin tunani mafita. Mun yi imel a kai a kai da mako guda. Na gaya mata ban san yadda zan kwatanta ainihin abin da na hango ba-gashin ombre mai launin toka, manyan abubuwan furfura, launin toka mai launin toka? Ba na so in ci gaba da jin kunyar tushena. "Ina so in zama mai haske da kyau," na gaya mata. Ya rage mata ta gane yadda. Ban yi hassadar aikin ba.

Lokacin da ranar ƙaddara ta zo kuma na fito, Sanchez-Ressy ya buɗe ƙofar, yana kuzari da ƙarfi. Ta ce min ta tashi tun karfe 4:30 na safe tana binciken tsofaffin hotuna na a intanet tare da tsara yadda na canza. "Wannan abin farin ciki ne a gare ni!" Ta ce kuma ta ba ni taƙaitaccen abin da ta ke tunani: Maimakon sake saitin salon Jack Martin, wanda zai ƙunshi sa'o'i na sa'o'i na cirewa da bleaching, kuma ya haifar da wani abu mai ban mamaki na baki da fari, tana son wani abu mai laushi. kuma mafi gauraye. Za ta yi fenti a cikin wasu karin bayanai daga kambi zuwa baki, ta bi tsarin launin toka na, "don haka ba ta da nisa fiye da a tsaye, kuma ta yi kama da juna," in ji ta. "Sa'an nan kuma za mu yi aiki a cikin ƙananan haske don daidaita sautin tagulla." Ina son sautin wannan.

Yayin da ta fara aiki, mun tattauna wasu hanyoyin da wani mai launin gashi zai iya ci gaba. Ta ce tsabtace launi na dindindin zai murƙushe launin toka ba tare da ɓoye su gaba ɗaya ba, kuma idan ina da ƙarfin gwiwa da gaske zan iya matsawa zuwa mai launin shuɗi, wanda zai sauƙaƙe har ma da fitar da sautin launin toka. "Yawancin mutane suna tunanin launin toka ya fi kauri saboda suna da girma, amma a gaskiya, sun fi sirara kuma sun fi laushi," in ji ta. "Dalilin da ya sa suke nuna halin da suke yi shi ne ba su da abin rufe fuska na melanin." Melanin, hadadden polymer wanda ke tantance launin fatar mu, shi ma yana bayan launin gashin mu na halitta. Gashi mai duhu yana da ƙarin melanin, kuma farin gashi kawai ba shi da komai. Jiki yana samar da raguwa a cikin lokaci, kuma rashinsa ana ganin yana haifar da karyewar gashi da kuma rashin haske, wanda ke bayyana dalilin da yasa gashin launin toka zai iya kama da kyan gani. (Mai Alaƙa: Manyan Shampoos Masu Kyau 9 don Yanke Brassiness)

Yin aiki tare da foils, Sanchez-Ressy ya raba gashin kaina zuwa sassan bitty, bin launi na halitta, da canzawa tsakanin launin ruwan kasa mai launin ruwan kasa da bleach wanda aka gauraya da salo-salo na Olaplex, mai yawan haɗin gwiwa wanda ke iyakance lalacewa. Ta gudanar da tsari mai duhu ta sassan da aka canza launi a baya akan kashi biyu bisa uku na gashin kaina, don ma fitar da ruwan lemo wanda ya tara tun lokacin canza launi na na ƙarshe. "Wannan bangare ne na kimiyya, fasaha da fasaha," in ji ta, ta bar ni na zauna na bar sinadarai suyi sihirinsu. Na fi dan tsoro.

Bayan daɗaɗɗen toning da rinsing, lokaci yayi da za a bushe ni don babban bayyanar. Kyawun ya bayyana sosai kafin ta ajiye injin busar da gashi. Babu sauran ruwan lemu na Garfield. Abin mamakin shine, azurfan da suke amfani da su don lalata kambin kai na yanzu an ɗora su a ko'ina kamar ƙyallen ƙyallen Kirsimeti. Abubuwan da aka fi so kusan an karanta su azaman masu launin shuɗi, kuma tasirin allo yana da wadata da niyya. Sanchez-Ressy ya tsaya bakin magana. "Ka duba kawai ... kyakkyawa."

Na yi rubutu da selfie (lafiya, a kadan selfie) zuwa da'irar ciki na kafin in maida shi gida (kuma ina zaune nisa guda uku kawai). "Shin ina kama da na mallaki gidan zane-zane ko menene?" Na tambayi abokaina. "Yana da kyau," da yawa daga cikinsu sun tabbatar. "Kana kama da wanda zan je wurin neman shawarar sana'a," wani badass na kamfani ya harbe baya. Lokacin da na shiga ƙofar gidana, mijina ya ruɗe. "Na yi tsammanin za ta kasance mai tsauri, amma kawai kamar kun fito daga salon." Dole ne ya matso kusa don ganin yadda akwai sabon rufin azurfa.

Na fi son abin da na gani kuma a cikin 'yan kwanaki masu zuwa. Ina kuma son yin tunani game da sabon salon yau da kullun na: Yanzu tushen ba zai zama abin damuwa ba - ko ma a abu — Ni da Sanchez-Ressy mun shirya haduwa don alƙawura kwata-kwata. Muddin ina da kyau game da yanayin kwanciyar hankali, zan iya dawowa kowane watanni uku ko makamancin haka don taɓawa. Za mu daidaita yanayin haske zuwa duhu yayin da muke tafiya. (Mai alaƙa: Yadda Ake Wartsake Launin Gashi A Gida)

Mako guda a cikin sabon kallo na, lokacin da mace - hamshakiyar masana'antar kyan gani, ba ƙaramin ƙasa ba - ta miƙa hannu don tambaya ko zan tashi kira don tattauna yuwuwar aikin aiki, na yi mamakin kaina kuma na ba da shawarar yin ta Zoom.

Kulawa da Ciyar da launin toka

Idan kuna tunanin canzawa zuwa launin toka ko kuma kuna da su, waɗannan samfuran na iya taimakawa ci gaba da kyawawan sabbin kayan aikin ku na azurfa masu haske da taushi tsakanin ziyarar salon - Na rantse da su duka. Za su taimaka haɓaka danshi da hana karyewa, kiyaye bleached, haskaka, da launin toka mai launin melanin da ke neman ɗaukaka.

Briogeo Mega Moisture Superfood Mask

Protein-, silicone-, magani mai sanyi mai zurfi mara paraben wanda ke cike da kiwi, alayyahu, avocado, tsaba chia, da man shanu iri na koko. Ka yi tunanin shi a matsayin santsi mai rufe danshi don gashin ku. (Mai Alaƙa: Mafi kyawun Masks ɗin Gashi na DIY don Kula da bushewa, Ƙarƙashin Ƙarfafawa)

Sayi shi:Briogeo Mega Moisture Superfood Mask, $ 36, sephora.com

Kérastase Paris Blond Absolu Le Bain Cicaextreme

An ƙirƙira don gashi mai bleached, wannan shamfu mai tsami an ƙirƙira shi ne don ƙarfafa zaruruwan gashin da aka sarrafa ya sa ɓangarorin bleaked haske kuma daidai.

Sayi shi: Kérastase Paris Blond Absolu Le Bain Cicaextreme Masque, $62, sephora.com

Mask ɗin Gashin Gashi Mai Kyau

Mai nauyi amma mai ƙarfi, wannan abin rufe fuska na Vitamin C yana aiki don kiyaye gashin ku yana kallon buttery, ba a ruɗe ba, kuma yana ɗauke da mai mai tauraro (aka borage oil) wanda ke kare kariya daga karyewa.

Sayi shi: Mashin Gashin Gashin Gurasa, $28, sephora.com

Kevin Murphy Cool Angel Shine Jiyya

An ƙirƙira don amfani da shi kamar kwandishana, wannan magani na bayan-shampooing yana ƙunshe da pigments don adana sautunan hayaƙi da kiyaye dumi-orange-rawaya a bay.

Sayi shi: Kevin Murphy Cool Angel Shine Treatment, $ 32, amazon.com

Bita don