Me yasa yakamata ku ƙara Lactic, Citric, da sauran Acids zuwa Tsarin Kula da Fata

Wadatacce

• Mandelic Acid
• Lactic acid
• Malic acid
• Azelaic acid
• Phytic Acid
• Tartaric Acid
• Citric acid
• Mafi kyawun Haɗa
• Bita don

Lokacin da aka gabatar da glycolic acid a farkon shekarun 1990, ya kasance mai sauyi don kula da fata. An san shi azaman alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), shine farkon sinadarin kan-da-counter wanda zaku iya amfani da shi a gida don hanzarta raguwar sel-fata-fata da bayyana fresher, mai laushi, fatar fata a ƙasa. Daga baya mun koyi cewa abin da ya samo asali na iya haifar da samar da collagen na fata.

Sa'an nan kuma ya zo da salicylic acid, beta hydroxy acid (BHA) wanda zai iya narkar da sebum gina jiki a cikin pores kuma ya zama kamar maganin kumburi, yana sa ya zama mai kyau ga launin ja, fushi, fata mai laushi. (Duba: Shin Da gaske ne Salicylic Acid Sinadarin Mu'ujiza don kuraje?) A sakamakon haka, glycolic acid ya zama ma'aunin gwal don hana tsufa kuma salicylic acid ya zama masoyi mai maganin kuraje. Wannan ya kasance bai canza ba har zuwa kwanan nan.

Yanzu wasu samfuran kula da fata suna ɗauke da ƙarancin acid da aka sani kamar mandelic, phytic, tartaric, da lactic. Me yasa aka kara? "Ina tunanin glycolic da salicylic acid a matsayin manyan 'yan wasan kwaikwayo a cikin wasa kuma waɗannan sauran acid a matsayin masu goyan baya. Lokacin da duk suka yi aiki tare, za su iya inganta samarwa," in ji Siffa Memba na Brain Trust Neal Schultz, MD, likitan fata na New York.

Waɗannan 'yan wasan masu goyan baya suna haɓaka inganci don dalilai biyu. Na farko, yayin da mafi yawan acid suna taimakawa wajen cirewa, "kowannensu yana yin akalla wani abu mai amfani ga fata," in ji NYC dermatologist Dennis Gross, MD. (Mai alaƙa: Abubuwan Kula da Fata guda 5 waɗanda ke kawar da fata mara kyau kuma suna Taimaka muku haske daga ciki) Dalili na biyu shine cewa yin amfani da acid mai yawa a ƙasan maida hankali (maimakon ɗaya a babban taro) na iya sa dabarar ta zama ƙasa da ban haushi. "Maimakon ƙara acid ɗaya a kashi 20 cikin ɗari, na gwammace in ƙara acid huɗu a kashi 5 don samun sakamako iri ɗaya tare da ƙarancin damar haifar da ja," in ji Dr. Gross. (FYI, tarin acid shine sihirin bayan Kafar Baby.)

Don haka waɗanne fa'idodi na musamman waɗanda waɗannan masu zuwa da masu zuwa ke bayarwa? Mun karya shi:

Mandelic Acid

Wannan babbar kwayar halitta ce, don haka ba ta shiga cikin fata sosai. "Wannan yana sa ya fi kyau ga nau'ikan masu hankali saboda zurfin shiga ciki yana nufin ƙananan haɗarin haushi," in ji Dokta Gross. Renée Rouleau, shahararriyar ƙwararriya ce a Austin, ta ce wannan AHA kuma na iya taimakawa "murƙushe samar da ƙamshi mai yawa." Tare da gargaɗi ɗaya. "Mandelic acid yana taimakawa wajen inganta haɓakawa da kuma rage haɗarin fushi lokacin da aka haɗe shi da glycolic, lactic, ko salicylic, amma mai yiwuwa bai isa ba na mai kunna wutar lantarki ya kasance a cikin samfurin kadai."

Lactic acid

Ya dade a can-Cleopatra ya yi amfani da madarar da aka lalata a cikin wanka ɗinta a kusa da 40 KZ saboda madarar madarar lactic acid ta taimaka wajen kawar da fata mai rauni-amma bai taɓa samun darajar glycolic ba saboda ba ta da ƙarfi sosai, wanda zai iya zama abu mai kyau. Lactic babban kwayoyin halitta ne, don haka yana da tasiri mai inganci don nau'ikan masu hankali, kuma ba kamar mandelic ba, yana da ƙarfin isa ya zama ɗan wasan jagora a cikin samfur. Dr. Gross ya bayyana cewa lactic acid shima yana hadewa zuwa saman saman fata kuma yana motsa shi don yin ceramides, wanda ke taimakawa kiyaye danshi a ciki kuma yana ba da haushi. (Wataƙila kun ji kuma game da lactic acid dangane da gajiya da tsoka.)

Malic acid

An samo asali daga apples, wannan AHA yana ba da wasu fa'idodi iri ɗaya kamar na lactic acid, amma "ya fi sauƙi," in ji Debra Jaliman, MD, wani likitan fata na New York City. Lokacin da aka ƙara shi azaman mai goyan baya a cikin dabara wanda ya ƙunshi acid mai ƙarfi kamar lactic, glycolic, da salicylic, yana taimakawa fitar da laushi da motsawar ceramide.

Azelaic acid

Babu wani AHA ko BHA, acid azelaic, wanda aka samo daga alkama, hatsin rai, ko sha'ir, "yana da duka abubuwan antibacterial da anti-inflammatory Properties, yana mai da ingantaccen magani ga kuraje ko rosacea," in ji Jeremy Brauer, MD, likitan fata na New York. . Yana maganin duka ta hanyar gangarawa zuwa cikin ɓarna, yana kashe kowace ƙwayoyin cuta a cikin su da kashe kumburin da kamuwa da cuta ke haifarwa. Azelaic acid kuma yana iya "dakatar da ƙirƙirar haɓakar melanin da ke da alhakin ɗigo mai duhu, ƙyallen fata, da ƙyalli mara kyau a fata," in ji Dokta Jaliman. Ya dace da fata mai duhu (sabanin hydroquinone da wasu lasers) saboda babu haɗarin hypo- ko hyperpigmentation, kuma an yarda da shi ga mata masu juna biyu da masu shayarwa. Wannan babban ƙari ne saboda "mata da yawa suna da matsala tare da melasma da fashewar juna biyu," in ji Dr. Jaliman. (Anan ga yadda ake fitar da sautin fata tare da jiyya da lasers.)

Phytic Acid

Wani acid wanda ba AHA bane ko BHA, wannan fitaccen maganin antioxidant ne, don haka yana taimakawa wajen kawar da radicals masu tsufa fata. Hakanan yana iya hana baƙar fata da raguwar pores. "Phytic acid yana aiki ne ta hanyar haɓaka calcium, wanda ba shi da kyau ga fata," in ji Dr. Gross. "Calcium yana canza mai na fata daga ruwa zuwa kakin zuma, kuma shine kakin kauri mafi girma wanda ke tarawa a cikin ramuka, wanda ke haifar da baƙar fata da shimfida ramuka don su bayyana girma." (Wannan shine duk abin da kuke buƙatar sani game da kawar da blackheads.)

Tartaric Acid

Wannan AHA ya fito ne daga inabi masu gasa kuma ana ƙara shi zuwa ga glycolic ko lactic acid don ƙarfafa ɓacin ransu. Amma babban fa'idar sa shine ikon sa na daidaita matakin pH na dabara. "Acids sun shahara ga morphing pHs, kuma idan sun yi girma da yawa ko ƙasa a cikin samfur, sakamakon shine fushin fata," in ji Rouleau. "Tartaric acid na iya taimakawa kiyaye abubuwa su daidaita." (Masu Alaka: Abubuwa 4 masu banƙyama da ke jefa fatar jikin ku a Ma'auni)

Citric acid

Mai kama da tartaric, citric acid, AHA wanda aka samo da farko a cikin lemons da lemun tsami, kuma yana kiyaye sauran acid a cikin kewayon pH mai aminci. Bugu da ƙari, yana aiki azaman mai kiyayewa, yana ba da damar dabarun kula da fata don kasancewa da sabon salo. A ƙarshe, acid citric shine chelator, wanda ke nufin yana kawar da ƙazantattun abubuwa (daga iska, ruwa, da ƙarfe masu nauyi) akan fata. "Citric acid yana kama waɗannan ƙazantattun don kada su shiga cikin fata," in ji Dr. Gross. "Ina so in yi la'akari da shi azaman Pac-Man na fata." (PS yakamata ku kuma karanta akan microbiome na fata.)

Mafi kyawun Haɗa

Gwada waɗannan samfuran masu ɗauke da acid don haɓaka haske.

• Dakta Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Mai Fitar da Moisturizer ($ 68; sephora.com) yana alfahari da acid guda bakwai.
• Giwa mai buguwa T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Maganin Dare ($ 90; sephora.com) yana sake tashi yayin bacci.
• Dakatar da Acid Acid Na Al'ada 10% ($ 8; thenor.com) yana daidaita sautin.
• BeautyRx na Dr. Schultz Advanced 10% Exfoliating Pads ($ 70; amazon.com) santsi, haske, da kamfanoni.
• Dr. Brandt Radiance Resurfacing Kumfa ($ 72; sephora.com) yana ba fata kashi na mako guda na acid biyar.

Bita don